Flux Nexometers and Water Stains

Posted on March 21, 2011August 6, 2019

Well, I’ve got a flat tire. Right now. In fact, I’m writing this from the lobby of the tire repair shop. And of course, to be perfectly honest, I’m kind of half-expecting someone to walk over to tell me, “Sir, the tire’s all fixed and ready to go, but we decided to take a look around and noticed that that motor’s leaking all kinds of Chromascopic oils and your Magnesium Regulator is completely empty. On top of all that, your Obstingent Flux Nexometer is completely shot.” (I’m not a car person, so as intelligent as I sound, I just want you to know that I’m making up names…)

Anyway, the point is, I’m half-expecting someone to tell me about all that bad stuff and then follow it up with this: “Now, the good news is that we can do all that. In fact, Obstingent Flux Nexometers are our specialty. The bad news, for you, is that all told, it’s probably going to run somewhere between $400 and $7000 dollars. We’ll know more when we get under the hood….”

Yeah, I’m half-expecting that to happen–not because I’m a pessimist, but because I’m a realist. I know how my life works. And that Nexometer thing wouldn’t surprise me at all.

Anyway, the point is this: I’m sitting in the lobby, thinking about a good way to spend my time and I decided to write a blog entry for RepcoLite.

But what to write about? Hmmmmm. My eyes drifted around the room and settled on some very noticeable water stains in the ceiling. And suddenly, I had a topic.

These water stains are everywhere. Homes have them, businesses have them, churches have them. And often, when folks find them in their place of business or in their basement, they’re confused as to how best to repair them and get their ceilings looking good again. And while I don’t have a clue how to go about locating, much less changing an Obstingent Nexometer, I do know a thing or two about paint.

So, if you’ve got water stains on your ceiling or on some ceiling tiles, here’s what you need to do to get things looking good again:

First off, you need to fix the source of the problem. This is absolutely a no-brainer, but believe me, people forget this all the time. Repainting and sealing your water stains on the ceiling will be an exercise in futility if you don’t first find the source of the problem and repair it. Get a roofer out to your home if necessary. Tighten your plumbing connections. Install some heat tapes on your roof if the leaks are from ice backup. Whatever you need to do, find the source of the leak and fix it.

Secondly, after you’ve fixed the source of the water problem, now it’s time to tackle the issue from a paint perspective. And the place to start, is with a good primer. We recommend Zinsser’s BIN Stain Blocking Primer. It’s a little expensive, but it works. Everytime. Period. And that makes it worth it. At any rate, pick up a quart or a pint or whatever and spot prime all those rusty areas.

Once the rust spots are primed, it’s just a matter of painting your ceiling. Don’t waste your time trying to save time by touching up just those spots–that never works and you’ll end up repainting the ceiling anyway. So skip the “time-saving step” and go straight to a full paint job of your ceiling. And for this, we recommend you use a good, waterbased ceiling paint in a finish of your choosing.

And that’s it. That’s all that’s necessary to painting over rusty water spots on your ceilings–whether your ceilings are plaster, drywall or even those drop-ceiling tiles. It’s a quick project and it will make a huge improvement in the look of your home or your business.

*** UPDATE ***

Just after I finished the post, the gentleman came out to tell me that my tire was fixed. When I got to the counter, he told me “We took a look at everything else and noticed that your brakes are failing. You should probably get it in soon and we’ll get them fixed up.”

I asked him, “Uhhh, how much does that typically run?” I tried to be cool and hip–to act like money didn’t matter and that I was just asking because I like to know things, but my voice broke and I sounded like I was starting to cry.

He looked up–startled–and quickly said, “Oh, it could be anywhere from $150 to $600. We won’t know until we start looking.”

I drove away a little depressed, but the more I thought about it, the more I realized that I should just be happy that my Obstingent Flux Nexometer is still working.

Quick Project: Paint an Accent Wall

Posted on March 11, 2011August 6, 2019

It’s been a while since we tossed up a “quick hitter” project–a project that should take you less than a couple hours and cost you less than $40–so I thought I’d pitch this one to you: painting an accent wall.

Painting an accent wall is an ideal project for the decorator on a budget. You can usually get by with less than a gallon of paint and the time it takes to paint one wall is, typically, about 1/4 of the time it takes to paint an entire room. (I’m throwing fractions around here just to show off my vast knowledge of math.)

Alright, with that said, let’s clarify what we’re talking about here. Painting an accent wall means taking a wall–the focal point of the room–and painting it a different (typically darker) color than the rest of the room. And that’s it. You don’t paint the other 3 walls, you don’t repaint your trim or your ceilings. You paint one wall a different color than the other 3 and you’re done.

Now, while that sounds easy, there are a couple things to think about when you tackle this project:

PICK THE RIGHT WALL

This is probably the biggest question folks deal with when they tackle this accent wall project: which wall do I choose? Typically, the answer you’ll get from paint people and do-it-yourself decorators alike is “paint the first wall you see when you walk into a room.”

Now, while that may not be always wrong, it’s certainly not always right. The correct answer is this: “paint the wall that your eye is naturally drawn to after you’ve entered a room.”

For example, if you walk into a bedroom, often times, as you approach the room, the first wall you see through the doorway is the side wall. Once you enter the room, your eye doesn’t linger there, though. Instead, your eye is naturally drawn to the wall that the bed stands against. That wall is the “focal” wall, the wall that you should consider for your accent wall.

So don’t spend so much time considering which wall you see first upon entering a room. Instead, spend more time looking around and noticing where your eyes are drawn. If you’ve got a fireplace in a living room, that wall is typically the focal wall. Painting an accent color against that wall will make your fireplace stand out, will draw attention in that direction and will give your room that “designer feel.” Other typical, natural focal points can be large paintings or a mirror, dominant pieces of furniture (a couch against a wall for example), or even an archway or a set of french doors. The walls that these items sit against, on, or in are candidates for the focal wall of the room.

PICK THE RIGHT COLOR

Once you’ve selected the right wall for your project, the next thing to consider (and, honestly, the last thing) is this: what color?

Often, when we hear the word “accent color” we think of orange. Or red. Or bright green. Or maybe a dark, dark blue. Basically, we think of bold, crazy colors. But don’t limit yourself in that regard.

Always remember that the depth or “boldness” of a color is subjective–it’s determined largely by the colors around it. If you’ve got a soft tan or an off white on all the walls of a room, even a mid-range blue or an earthy green would function as an “accent color”. In fact, an orange in a room like that would be really difficult (not impossible, but difficult) to pull off.

Conversely, if you have a room of medium to dark tones, you could go either direction. A bold orange, green, red, blue, brown could potentially be a tremendous accent color to put on that one focal wall. But, so also could an off white. If the rest of your room has some color and depth to it, even an off white can function as an accent color.

So, all that to say, don’t limit yourself (and scare yourself away from the project) by thinking that in order to do the project justice, you’ll need to pop open a can of “safety orange” and kiss your calm, peaceful room goodbye.

A great way to pick a color for an accent wall is to look to your fabrics–pull one of the colors out of the throw pillows on the couch or the comforter on the bed. Look to any art you have on the walls–is there a color in there that would look great on one single wall of the room–possibly the wall the picture itself is hanging on? What about the carpet? The window treatments?

Anyway, you get the idea. Find a wall, pick a color and spend a couple hours this weekend or next painting that one single wall and you’ll be amazed at the results!

Checkerboard Table–Easy as 1, 2, 3 . . . 8

Posted on March 1, 2011August 6, 2019

Painting a checkerboard design on a table is a great project that will infuse your front porch (or wherever) with that old-fashioned, laid- back feeling we all associate with a game of checkers. It’s simple, quick and best of all, will probably cost you less than $20 (including the table).

1. Acquire a Table

The first thing you need to do is get your hands on an old end table. Now, maybe you’ve got one stuffed away in your attic or your basement or maybe you’ve got to head to the mission store or start hitting those garage sales. Whatever you need to do, get your hands on an old end table. And don’t worry so much about appearances. This project works well even if the table is chipped, scratched or cracked.

2. Paint the Table (if necessary)

If the table is not the color you want it to be, follow these instructions to get it looking exactly the way you want it.

3. Pencil in the Checker Board Pattern

If Checkerboardyou’ve got a checker board around the house, get it out and duplicate the pattern on your table using a ruler and light pencil lines. If you don’t have a checker board for reference, a standard checker board is composed of 64 squares laid out on an 8 x 8 board (see inset). 32 will be light and 32 will be dark. We recommend laying the board out with either 2″ squares, 1.5″ squares or 1″ squares based on the size of the table. (Choosing one of these sizes makes it much easier to tape it off later when you get ready to paint).

4. Tape it Off

Once you’ve got the pattern penciled in, it’s time to tackle the most time-consuming part of the project: laying down the masking tape. Start with a roll of safe-release masking tape available at your local home center or hardware store. Purchase the roll in the width that you drew your squares. (If you drew 2″ squares, go with the 2″ tape, etc.) Tape around the edges of the entire board and then tape off alternating lines and alternating squares (see inset).

5. tape1Paint the First 16 Squares

Using a paint color darker than the rest of your table (or lighter if you’re table is quite dark), carefully brush or roll the paint over your taped-off table top. As soon as you’ve finished this, carefully remove the tape and let the surface dry. If you’re planning sharp lines for your checker board pattern, then let the table dry overnight. If you’re planning on distressing the top as we have in our photos, you only need to let the top dry for a few minutes. (The reason is this: if you tape over the freshly painted surface too soon, you run the risk of pulling up some of the new paint when you remove your tape. If you’re planning on a distressed look, this doesn’t matter. If not, then you better wait).

6. Tape it Off Again and Paint the Other 16 Squares

After you’ve let the first set of squares dry it’s time to tape off the rest of the board. Lay your tape just as you did the first time, taping off alternating lines and alternating squares (see inset). Once this is accomplished, apply your paint to the open squares using the same method as you did previously. Again, carefully remove the tape immediately after you finish painting.

7. Tape and Paint the Border

Once you’ve finished the squares, lay two strips of tape around each side of the board exposing a 1/8″ or so gap that will become the border. Paint this border in and remove tape carefully.

8. Distress & Finish

If you’re planning on distressing the piece, you can do this as soon as the paint is dry to thChecker Board Table 3e touch, or you can leave this part of the project for another day. Just use light pressure with some 150 grit sandpaper and dust over the entire surface of the table. Continue this until the checker board pattern is sufficiently distressed. Wipe the table clean with a slightly damp rag and, when it’s dry, either leave it as is or apply a single coat of a flat polyurethane varnish or a spray lacquer. (Be advised, unless you use a water-based polyurethane or a non-yellowing lacquer, this protective coat will yellow slightly over time.)

This Checkerboard project takes a little bit of patience, but other than that, it’s easy. It’s something anyone can do and it’s extremely inexpensive. Check it out! And let us know how it went!

There’s Nothing Like Throwing Away $300!

Posted on February 10, 2011August 6, 2019

Just before Christmas, my wife and I decided to go through the kids’ toys and get rid of the stuff we didn’t need. With Christmas coming and the inevitable influx of new toys, we figured we’d need to make space. And so we decided to do some heavy-duty toy cleaning. (Which is just another way of saying “we used garbage bags.”)

Anyway, just before Christmas we tackled this project and were surprised when the kids actually helped us fill up 8 garbage bags with dolls and playmobil toys and stuffed animals and other assorted things. All of that stuff went to the mission. Besides that, we simply threw away a ton of trinkety things the kids collected over time as well as some old, broken GIJOE vehicles from my childhood. It took a while, but when we were done, we felt great. Lighter. Happy. For a while. Until I found something on EBay.
Yeah.

See, I was cruising around on EBay, looking for something, and I ran into an auction for some old GIJOE items. I started scanning over all the figures and the vehicles and the memories of my childhood flooded back. It was great…until I scrolled down to a listing that showed a picture of the great big GIJOE hovercraft vehicle I had just thrown away.

The listing read like this: “Up for Auction: 1 GIJOE VINTAGE HOVERCRAFT. Some parts missing. Some pieces broken, but still great for scrap parts.”

Yeah, there it was: a broken hovercraft toy that was WAY more broken than mine. And it was up for sale. Which really doesn’t mean anything, because everything can be up for sale. The big question is this: was it creating interest? And the answer is: YES! There were 10 bids on the stupid, broken hovercraft with some parts missing. What’s worse, the current bid was $49.00. $49.00 with 3 more days of bidding to go!!!

Well, from there, I couldn’t help myself. I searched the other toys we’d just given away or tossed out and I discovered that all together, I probably threw away anywhere from $300 to $500 worth of “vintage” (which is just a fancy way of saying “broken”) toys.

Now, that’s not a big deal…if you hate having money. But if you’d like to have money or could use money for something, well, then throwing away $300 is like a dagger through your heart.

However, it was a done deal. The toys were gone and I couldn’t get them back. I could either sit around and feel depressed about what I’d done, or I could take the lesson to heart and learn from it. I chose to do that second one. (After doing the first one for about 2 weeks).

The next time I did some cleaning around the house, I decided (rather than throwing them away) to put some of my items up for auction on Ebay. It took a little bit of reading to figure out how it was done, but after a couple hours, I had about six items listed. 7 days later, five of those six items had sold and I’d made a cool $150.

Oh, the things I sold were junk to me, but somebody out there in the big, wide world liked them, wanted them and was willing to pay for them. It was exciting.

And I bring it up here for a couple reasons: first, I want to remind you that there are places like Ebay and Craigslist and who knows what else–online places where you can hold virtual garage sales. Secondly, I mention that so that you realize you can do it, too. All you need is a computer, a digital camera (probably) and a little bit of a willingness to learn. Or, if you don’t have those things, you can do what my parents would do and just ask your kid to sell your stuff for you.

Whatever you do, be aware that the junk you’re sorting as you go through your home, getting rid of your clutter, might have value. Before you toss it or donate it, why not spend a couple minutes bouncing around on Ebay. Search for the items and see what’s going on. See if similar items are drawing any kind of significant money. See if they’re creating interest or generating bids. If they aren’t . . . well, then it’s off to the mission or the dumpster with no regrets. But if they are–if they seem to be worth something to somebody–why not take advantage of that and earn some money?

Four Boxes That Hold The Key to De-cluttered Home

Posted on February 8, 2011August 6, 2019

For the last few posts, I’ve been writing about removing clutter from our homes. And some of you might be wondering why. I mean, really, why would RepcoLite Paints–a company who sells paint–be spending time on a topic like this?

Well, to quickly answer that, let me just say that RepcoLite isn’t just about selling paint. Our focus as a company is on helping you get your home looking and feeling the way you’ve always wanted it to look and feel.

For all of you who flip through magazines or channels on tv and see beautiful, amazing homes and wish you knew what it took to make your home look like that . . . well you’re the people we’re here to help. And really, what better way to get started on that than to get your home cleaned up?

See, cleaning is the first step in many home redecorating projects. We clean a room and realize the potential that was lying just beneath all the clutter. Next thing you know, we’re painting, buying some new decor and before long, that room we’ve always avoided is a place in which we want to spend more time. And all of that starts with a little cleaning. That’s why I’ve been writing about it.

OK, with that said, let’s get to the main point of today’s blog. Last time (you can read it here if you haven’t read it already) we talked about setting a timer while you work. That’s a great step to take when you’re cleaning. However, to make sure your time is spent as efficiently as possible, here’s a very basic, but sometimes overlooked trick to help you: Set 3 boxes or rubbermaid containers in the room you’re cleaning.

Label one of these boxes, “KEEP”, label one of them “DONATE” and label the third one “JUNK.” If you’re of the selling mindset, you could put a 4th container in the room and label it “SELL”. From there, it’s just a matter of sorting through the clutter and tossing it into the appropriate bin.

And when you do this, but utterly ruthless. If you don’t use an item, get rid of it. Sell it, donate it or toss it–but don’t keep it. Remember, the goal is to cut down on the junk not just to re-organize it. So be ruthless.

Don’t allow sentimental bonds to tie your hands and prevent you from making progress. It’s hard to do, but you’ll be happy you did. Next time, I want to spend some time blogging about that little “SELL” box you might have sitting there and how much money might be bouncing around inside of it!

3 Reasons Why Setting a Timer Makes De-Cluttering Easy

Posted on February 7, 2011August 6, 2019

When it comes to de-cluttering your home . . . helping your home shed some unwanted pounds . . . one of the best tips I’ve run across is this one: set a timer.

My family does this on a regular basis and it helps to solve what I think is the biggest problem we face when it comes to cleaning, organizing and de-cluttering: the paralysis we feel when our brain begins to fully comprehend the amount of work we need to do!

Here are 3 reasons why:

There’s An End In Sight

Setting a timer gives your project a definite ENDING POINT. If your “ending point” is the end of the project, it’s easy to get overwhelmed–especially when those projects are big. When you tell your kids (or yourself) “we’re all going to clean the basement and we’re not calling it quits until the walls have been scrubbed, the floors have been bleached and all the toys have been sorted by color, size, type and age-group . . .” well, you’re unlikely to find many happy people in your little work crew.

The job is too big. When you look at your basement, with that goal in mind–utter cleanliness–you realize how much work is ahead of you. For me, that’s a real buzz-kill because it A) makes me depressed, and; B) makes me angry, which; C) makes everybody else depressed.

However, when we set a timer, it no longer matters how BIG the job is. What matters is only the amount of time I programmed into that little timer. If I set it for 1/2 an hour, we all work knowing that after 30 minutes, we’re done. If I set it for 1 hour, we all know we’ve got 60 minutes and we’ll quit.

It doesn’t matter if we finish the room tonight or not. The finish line is no longer a flawlessly clean room. The finish line is much easier to reach–it’s that 30 or 60 minute mark.

When we do that as a family, we’ve found it takes the edge off the project. It doesn’t feel hopeless anymore. It doesn’t feel enormous. It doesn’t depress me, doesn’t make me angry. I know that I can jump in, start working and, in 30 minutes or so, pack it all in for the night.

The Guilt is Gone

Another benefit of setting a timer is the almost magical removal of guilt. See, if I tackle a project and set as my goal the completion of that project, I tend to feel guilty if I quit short of reaching that goal. I feel like I failed–that I should have worked harder or a little longer.

However, when we set a timer, we remove that guilt because we’ve changed our goals. As we mentioned above, we’re not working for a clean room per se–we’re working for a set amount of time. When we reach that set amount of time, we’ve accomplished our goal for the night. It doesn’t matter that the room isn’t finished yet. As long as the timer’s gone off, we’ve accomplished our goal and can call it quits for the night without even an ounce of guilt.

Cleaning Becomes a Race Against Time

A third benefit of setting a timer when you clean is that the timer–just the fact that it’s in the background, like a bomb, ticking away–gives everybody working a bit of a “we’re in a race” mentality. You work a little faster because you know that the timer’s ticking. You move a little quicker, you grab two or three things and sprint rather than picking up a single item and trudging dejectedly across the room to put it away.

You know the timer’s ticking down and you want to have as much work done as possible before it goes off. Instead of looking at the mountain of work and thinking “we’ll be doing this forever,” you’ll find yourself looking at it and thinking “we’ve only got 10 more minutes . . . go! Go! Go!”

When we do this as a family, we’ve actually found ourselves having fun while cleaning. It’s insane. It defies logic. But it’s true. Try it for yourself and find out.