Getting Rid of Mold on Your Ceiling in 3 Steps

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Mold On The CeilingMold on a bathroom ceiling is a common problem homeowners struggle with on a regular basis.  However, the good news is that while it is common and while it can be a pain to get rid of, it CAN be dealt with–you just need to take the right steps.

ASSESS THE PROBLEM

You need to start the process of fixing the mold on your ceiling by remembering that mold is a SYMPTOM of a deeper problem.  Somehow, moisture is causing this mold to grow and thrive on your walls or your ceiling.  You need to figure out what is causing the moisture.  It could be your shower, it could be an ineffective (or non-existent) ceiling fan, it could be a leaky pipe or even a leaking roof.  Find the problem that’s causing the mold and fix it.  If it’s the roof, repair it.  If it’s the shower, cut down on the number or length of showers if possible.  If it’s the fan, put a new one in.  This is the first part and it’s a critical step.  If you DON’T do this, chances are the mold will just continue to be a problem.

KILL THE MOLD

Once you’ve dealt with the root source of the problem, it’s time to deal with the symptoms–the mold.  And the first step here is to kill it.  This is done by mixing a solution of 1 part Bleach and  4 parts Water in a spray bottle.  Once you’ve got this mixed, mist the bleach solution over the affected spots on your ceiling or walls.  (TAKE PRECAUTIONS HERE:  Wear old clothes, remove rugs, put down drop clothes, wear eye protection and DON’T MIX THE BLEACH WITH OTHER CLEANING AGENTS).  After you’ve sprayed the mold spots, allow the bleach about 10 minutes or so to work and then scrub the spots with a sponge or a scrub brush.  If necessary, hit the spots with a second misting of bleach.

TOPCOAT

Once you’ve killed the mold and mildew and let the wall dry down, you might be done. Yes, you read that correctly! You might not even need to paint! But if you do, the last step in the process is to roll a couple coats of a high-quality finish on your walls or ceiling.  We recommend first and foremost Benjamin Moore’s Aura Bath and Spa. It’s a tremendous product for you bathroom and, in our opinion, the best thing you could use. It’s specially formulated for bathroom and high moisture areas, offering excellent mold and mildew resistance. It’s also available in a matte finish. Which means you can say goodbye to those shiny bathroom walls! On top of that, it’s Aura. Which means excellent hide and coverage!

If you’re repainting, Aura Bath and Spa is a great choice. In fact, there’s really no reason to use anything else!

Mold on a bathroom ceiling is a pain in the neck.  My bathroom is living (literally) proof of that right now.  But, as I mentioned earlier, the good news is that the problem is fixable and, with effort, even preventable.  Follow these steps and you should find your way to a mold-free bathroom in no time!

Ancient Greece: The Importance of Paint REVEALED!

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colorful_greeceIf I say the words “Athens, Greece”, what do you think of?
Chances are, you think about about white marble statues and temples–beautifully simplistic art and architecture. That’s what comes to mind when I hear those words. But, apparently, my understanding of history and culture and Greek architecture and art are a little skewed. And I’m betting some of you have a warped perception as well.
See, apparently all those white marble structures and statues we think of are only white because time and the elements have worn off their original coatings. Yes, they were painted! Bold, bright, vivid colors. And all, apparently, without good prep work, since the paint all peeled off!

8 Quick Tips Regarding Roller Covers

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For those of us who paint everyday, there are little things we learn along the way–little things we do that makes the work go quicker, easier.  Here are a collection of 8 of those tips–check them out and make use of any of them that make sense to you!

ALWAYS START EVERY PROJECT with a NEW ROLLER COVER

People often try to save money by re-using an old roller cover.  The problem is, those old, washed-out roller covers never work well.  The fibers get clumpy after a good washing and typically they never return to a condition that applies a finish paint well.  So don’t compromise your paint job–the money you spent on paint and the time you spent working–only to end up with a poor finish.  Instead, spend the extra $4 or so and get a new cover for a new project!

ALWAYS PICK the RIGHT ROLLER for the JOB

A 3/8″ roller cover is ideal for most interior surfaces and most paint finishes.  3/8″ covers work for standard textured ceilings and yet they’re smooth enough for your walls.  These covers carry enough paint to be easy to use, but they typically don’t carry so much that they spatter and drip everywhere.  However, bear in mind that there are shorter-napped and longer-napped covers that are specific for certain situations.  Before you buy any cover, we recommend that you explain your project to the expert in the paint store and let him or her steer you to the right cover.

DON’T FORGET there are SMALL ROLLERS for the LITTLE JOBS

RepcoLite carries a wide assortment of small, specialty rollers.  These are perfect for painting everything from the panels in a paneled door, to reaching those tight areas behind your radiators or inside your cabinets.  When you find yourself in a tight spot, don’t forget that these options are available!

DON’T MIX and MATCH ROLLER COVERS

Building on the idea just mentioned, it’s important to point out that the finishes left by those little roller covers can be different from the finish left behind by your standard roller cover.  This can potentially make a difference in the appearance of your overall project.  The difference can be minor–and it can be severe.  The best way around it is to remember that all of those little rollers–at least the ones we have at RepcoLite–match up in nap and finish with their larger counterparts.  If you used a 3/8″ roller for your walls, make sure you pick up a 3/8″ roller cover for your small roller.

ROLLER FRAMES MATTER

So far, we’ve only talked about roller covers, but a big part of the ease and functionality of a roller cover is the frame you put it on.  If you buy the best roller cover, but then mount it on the cheapest frame you can get your hands on, chances are the experience will be less than stellar!  Roller frames are not disposable–they last from job to job.  Add to that the fact that a good, high quality frame is typically about $4 – $6 more than a cheapo and it’s really a no-brainer.  Drop the extra $4 once and you’ll reap the rewards of your decision every single time you paint!

REMOVE LINT from the NEW COVER

Folks don’t always realize this, but brand new roller covers are typically covered with lint and cut-off fuzzies. It happens during the manufacturing process and, if you don’t remove these fuzzies before you start painting, you’ll typically find yourself removing them from your wall after you’ve rolled them on in a coat of paint.  To remove them, simply tape some painter’s tape down on your counter–sticky side up–and roll your cover over the tape.  Do this several times to make sure all the lint and loose fibers have been removed.

USE WATER to PREPARE YOUR ROLLER COVER for PAINT

Sometimes, filling a new roller cover up with paint can be a pain.  You roll it in the tray but the second it hits the paint, it stops rolling.  You end up with a bunch of paint on one half of the cover and nothing on the other.  Oh, you can get the whole thing covered, but it takes some work.  To avoid that hassle, try this:  moisten the roller cover with water (for latex paint) ahead of time.  Either run it quickly under a tap or mist it with a spray bottle of clean water.  Once it’s wet, roll it out on a dry rag to remove the excess moisture before moving it to your paint. (Don’t roll it out on newspaper as the newsprint could come off on the cover!)

USE SARAN WRAP to STORE YOUR COVERS OVERNIGHT

If you get done painting for a night, but plan to start again the next morning, don’t waste time cleaning out your cover.  Simply pull it off your roller frame and then wrap it tightly in Saran Wrap.  Once it’s wrapped, store it on your counter or in your refrigerator. DON’T STORE IT IN YOUR FREEZER (unless it’s oil-based paint). This process should keep your roller ready for use for a day or so.

Be aware that if you leave it much longer, it runs the risk of drying out and–especially in humid situations–getting a little moldy.

Keeping Your Caulk From Drying Out

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wax_ringI’ve got a number of tubes of caulk in my basement, on my shelves, that are dried out. And that number is 10. Yes. Ten 1/2 full or 3/4 full tubes of caulks of assorted colors and types that have all dried out.

I discovered this the other day when I, of course, needed to do some caulking. And, of course, I didn’t buy any caulk because I knew I had at least $40 worth of caulk on my basement shelves. However, when I went down there to get it, I quickly realized that all of those tubes were no good.

I had used them earlier and had never sealed them correctly to prevent them from drying out. And, as a result, they dried out.

Well, I know that I can at times be pretty dumb when it comes to home improvement stuff, but I also know that I’m not the only one. So, I thought I’d share with you two great ways I discovered after that experience that will help you keep your caulk ready to use.

METHOD 1: The Wax Ring Method

The first way is my favorite and I owe credit to a wood working blogger I discovered here.  This method is very simple, very cost effective, a little gross (when you think about it), and very cool.  Here it is:

  • Buy a wax ring for a toilet from a hardware store.  (Should be under $4 in price.)
  • Take the wax ring and put it in a small container that you can seal.  (you could use a tape cannister, possibly film cannisters, or anything along those lines.  The goal is to put the wax in a container that you can seal so it stays pliable, but also so it doesn’t get all over the place and make a mess).
  • When you’re done caulking for a day or for a month or whatever, simply open up this cannister with the wax and press the tip of the caulk into the wax (preferably a couple inches).

The wax will fill the nozzle perfectly and will create a perfect seal.  When you’re ready to caulk again, simply pop the tube into your gun and squeeze the trigger.  The wax seal will be expelled just ahead of the caulk–which will still be perfectly good!

METHOD 2: Latex Gloves

Another method I’ve read about for sealing up a tube of caulk in-between jobs is this:

  • Start by taking one of those little latex “doctor’s” gloves and then cutting the finger off.
  • Drape this “cut-off finger” over the nozzle of the tube of caulk and then wrap some tape around the base to seal it.
  • When you’re ready to use it again, simply pull the seal off and your caulk should still be usable.
  • Now, while both of these methods are inexpensive and should work well, I still like the simplicity of the wax  ring idea.  I don’t have to mess with tape, I don’t have to worry if I got the little finger thingy taped down tightly enough, etc.  And, best of all, when I want to use the caulk again, I just pop it in the gun and pull the trigger.  I don’t have to mess with pulling tape off after it’s been sitting on a tube for 4-5 months.

If you do any amount of caulking, give one of these methods a try–either one is way better than the old “put a nail in it” method and will produce much better results!

Finding the Right Contractor in 10 Easy Steps

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The following has been adapted from “Ten Tips for Hiring a Painting Contractor” by the Paint Quality Institute.

Have you ever tried to find the right contractor to do some work in your home?  Have you ever lived through some of the home-remodel horror stories we hear about from time?  I read about one the other day:  a couple bought a historical home in a fancy historical section of some fancy little town somewhere–not around here–but still, a nice, quiet upscale neighborhood.  They bought a nice house and then hired a couple contractors to come in and do some work to perfect their new home.

Well, they brought one company in to do some work digging out the basement and underpinning the foundation.  (Yes, I’m sure you can see where this is going.)  This contractor, it turned out, didn’t know quite as much about excavating as he had suggested to the couple.  Subsequently, he excavated so thoroughly around the home that one of the basement walls collapsed.  Which of course, caused parts of the house to collapse.  Which, of course, caused the rest of the house to collapse.  Which, consequently, was so catastrophic that it caused parts of a neighbor’s house to collapse.  Everybody made it out alright, but what a mess–what a nightmare!  And what a way to start a relationship with a new neighbor:  “Hi.  I’m Tim and this is my wife Alice.  We just moved in and knocked our house down on top of yours.  Can we use your restroom?”

At any rate, that’s an extreme example, but we’ve all heard about other situations that, while not as horrific, were still horrible, painful and depressing for the folks involved.  And because of that, many of us get nervous at the very thought of hiring somebody to do any kind of work in our home.  We wonder if we’ll hire the right company.  We wonder how we’ll know that the company we do hire is honest.  We wonder how we can be assured they’ll do quality work and on and on and on.

Well, because of that, I figured we’d breeze through a great list of tips based on a similar list produced by the the Paint Quality Institute.

So, without any further ado, here are 10 Ways to Make Sure You Hire the Right Contractor:

Number One:  PREPARE

Before you sit down with your contractors to talk about the work, sit down with your spouse and compile a list of the work you expect to be done on a given project.  This gives you a list of specific items you can hand to each contractor to make sure nothing’s forgotten and also, to make sure they’re quoting on the same work.

Number Two:  GET MULTIPLE QUOTES

Don’t limit yourself to working with the first company you contact.  Talk to multiple contractors and get quotes from each of them.  And don’t be afraid to let your contractors know that you will be getting different quotes.  You don’t need to be rude about it, or use it bully someone into giving you a bottom of the barrel price, but it never hurts to be honest and let them know that they should put “their best foot forward” so to speak.

Number Three:  ANALYZE THE QUOTES and CLARIFY THE WORK PROCESS

And by “analyze” I don’t mean simply look at the price tag and decide from there.  I mean analyze every aspect of the quotes.  If one of your contractors gives you a quote that says “Paint Living Room for $400”, you owe it to yourself to dig deeper.  Especially if the other quotes came in higher.  Make sure you find out what the contractor means when he says “Paint Living Room.”  Does that mean 1 coat of paint?  Does it mean 2?  Does it mean he’ll prep the walls?  Fill nail holes?  Patch dings?  Move your furniture out?  Paint around it?  Etc.  Look at the quotes, and compare the work that’s being done–don’t just look at the price and go with the cheapest.

Number Four:   TALK ABOUT TIMING

Before any work starts in your home, make sure you sit down with the contractor and talk about timing.  How long will the project reasonably take?  When will he be able to start?  How long will he work each day?  And, most importantly, what happens if the work is not finished on time?  Hammer out the solution the contractor will offer if the work takes unreasonably longer than expected.  Don’t wait to start talking about this until there’s a problem–that’s way too late.  Deal with this ahead of time–before you’ve even hired a contractor–and get it in writing.

Now, with that said, I want to encourage you to focus on my line about the project taking “UNREASONABLY LONGER” than you expected.  Problems will arise in almost every remodel project–things you couldn’t have predicted.  If your contractor is working diligently through these complications, don’t hold him to unreasonable expectations.  Use this concept as a safeguard to protect yourself from a negligent or disinterested contractor, not as a means to wring money out of a contractor who’s doing his/her best in a bad situation.

Number Five:  ASK ABOUT THE WARRANTY

Most contractors will warrant their work for about a year or so.  Find out what your contractor will warrant and for how long well before you hire him.  When your paint has peeled six months after the work was completed is NOT the right time to explore the warranty options.  The time to do that is well before any money leaves your hand!

Number Six:  ASK FOR REFERENCES

Every good, trustworthy contractor out there will GLADLY supply you with a list of references–names and numbers of folks he’s worked for in the past.  And when he does supply you with this list, CALL THE PEOPLE.  Just because you’ve received a list of names from your contractor doesn’t mean that those people liked the work she did for them.

Number Seven:  PERSONAL APPEARANCES MATTER

In so many other situations in life, we should never judge by outward appearances, but when it comes to business, appearances matter.  If your contractor shows up looking like he just crawled out of bed, hadn’t shaved for 3 weeks, and possibly has been living under a bridge somewhere, understand he will likely bring this same level of professionalism to your job.

Number Eight:  BUSINESS ETIQUETTE MATTERS

In the same way that personal appearances matter, so does business etiquette.  Did your contractor return your calls in a reasonable amount of time?  Did she make it on time to all your appointments?  Was she professional in speech? In dress?  In the manner in which she talked about addressing your concerns?  If you run into a contractor who can’t make it on time to meetings, can’t return your phone calls in a reasonable amount of time, and so on . . . I’d run away quickly.  If that is the best he can muster when he’s trying to secure your business, how much less is he going to bring when he’s actually got your money?

Number Nine:  WHAT PAINT WILL BE USED?

Work out these details ahead of time as well.  Some contractors have certain products they want to work with, but typically, you’re going to be much better off (your job will last longer, will apply easier, wash up better, etc.) if you make sure you use high quality (RepcoLite) paint!

Number Ten:  PAY NOBODY UNTIL THE WORK’S DONE

Now, this is a no-brainer, but don’t hand over the full amount of money until after you’ve had time to inspect the finished work.  Oh, you may need to give some money up front for supplies, paints, etc., but don’t hand over a final check until everything is finished.  Don’t do that even if your painter shows up and tells you the “guys will be finished tomorrow and I was just in the neighborhood, could I get the check now?”  Nicely and politely say “no.”  Even if you trust your contractor.  Even if your contractor is your Brother-in-Law.  Handing money over before a project is finished is a recipe for disaster.  Don’t do it!

And there you go–10, long-winded tips to make sure you end up with the right contractor.  Any comments?  Any feedback?

A New Chair for the Little Guy

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the-big-chair-670134_1280no_attribution_necessaryYesterday, I was sitting in my little cubicle at work, happily typing away on the computer, when I suddenly realized that the other people in the office were talking about me with a salesperson from Wyrick’s Office Supplies. Talking and laughing.  Mostly laughing.

See, let me backpeddle for a second and explain:  our Office Manager decided last week that it was time to buy  a new chair for me.  Mine is old, uncomfortable and miserable to sit in for any length of time.  (In fact, I’m pretty sure it was used in England in the middle ages as a device of torture.)  And so, it was decreed that I could have a new chair–hence the visit from the Wyrick’s salesperson and the conversation that occurred yesterday.

Now, that’s fine and I have no problem at all with people talking about me when they’re buying me a new chair.  Or when they’re buying me anything, really.  Especially electronics.  Buy me electronics and you have license to talk about me all you want.  It’s one of my bylaws.  But in this instance, as I mentioned, along with the conversation, there was a lot of stifled laughter.  And also a lot of laughter that wasn’t so stifled.  In fact, if I had to classify it, I’d rank the bulk of the laughter between a “guffaw” and a “belly-laugh”.

And so, after a few minutes of this, I tried to poke my head over my cubicle so I could see what was going on.  But, of course, I couldn’t see over the cubicle because I’m . . . well . . . short.  And so I dragged a paint can over so I could climb on that and peak over and see what was going on.  As I did so, I heard the other people say, “Oh, he’s dragging his paint can over now so he can peak over the cubicle and see what’s going on.”

And when I finally did manage to peak over the edge of the cubicle, everybody–salesman included–erupted in laughter that was definitely bordering on “belly-laugh”.

Well, trying to maintain my dignity, I said, “What’re you talking about?”

And the Office Manager simply said:  “We’re picking out a chair for you.”

Now, I may be short, but I’m not dumb.  I knew what was going on.  And so I said “Oh, you’re trying to find a chair little enough for the short guy?”

And without missing a beat, the Office Manager explained that they were asking if Wyrick’s could get a chair that had a little fold-out ladder thing “so you can clamber up into your chair.”

So I can “clamber” up into my chair?  Rats and mice and other rodents clamber.  I’m more of a “jumper” or a “leaper”.

At any rate, the minute she said that, everybody started laughing again and then the sales guy, in all seriousness, started flipping pages and said, “Well, I don’t think I’ve got anything with a ladder . . . but here’s a chair that automatically lowers itself to about 1 1/2 foot off the ground.”  He then looked at me and I thought–for a horrible second–that he was going to whip out a measuring tape and try to see if I could manage to get into a chair that was 1 1/2 foot off the ground.  He was still undecided when someone else shouted:  “We could always just lift him up and put him in it every morning.”

That seemed to satisfy the salesman and he went back to his catalog, flipping pages and pointing out different chairs that were apparently designed for the severely height-disabled.  Before he’d gone too far, my Office Manager chimed up again–sounding very serious when she did so:  “Can we have him try some of these out–you know, to make sure his legs don’t swing back and forth all day long?  Because I bet that can get uncomfortable.”

“Yeah,” someone else shouted (it was amazing how many people wanted to take part in the “Buy Dan a Chair” discussion), “when my 8 year old nephews go for a ride in the car, their legs go to sleep when they have to have them dangling over their car seats….”

8 year old nephews?  Car seats?  Little dangling legs?  I cleared my throat–to let them all know I was still standing right there–but they didn’t seem to care.  They were laughing, having a great time, looking at all the features that chairs come with and seeing which features might work for “the little guy.”

Finally, I decided that nothing was to be gained by standing there listening to it all, so I threw in my two cents.  I said that since we were looking for features in a chair for me, I’d like most of all to have a chair that I could drive around the office–like one of those Little Rascals or those “Hoveround” chairs or whatever they’re called.  You know, the ones that the old people drive to the Grand Canyon and then sit on the edge cheering?  Yeah, I’d like one of those.

Think how awesome that would be:  Walking to the bathroom wouldn’t be work anymore.  It’d be like being at Craig’s Cruisers on the Go-Cart track all day long.  I could zip and weave around the paint cans and the shelves and the boxes.  I could drive out to the back of the plant to throw my coffee cups away in the dumpster and then I could drive back. I could drive over to the fax machine to send a fax.  Drive to the copy machine to make copies or scan stuff.  Drive to the printers, drive to the coffee pot, drive to my car at the end of the day and then hire somebody to drive my chair back to the office.  After they lifted me and put me in my car.  Because really, we must be honest here:  all that driving around instead of walking is likely going to take a toll on my leg muscles.

Yeah, I was just getting into the idea of having a Little Rascal chair of my own when the Office Manager killed my dream.  “You’re not getting a Little Rascal.  The only bells and whistles you’re getting on your new chair is a step-stool.  So you can get in and out without having to be helped.”

And of course, that started the laughing up all over again.  I backed away and went back to my desk, dragged my paint can over to my old chair and clambered back onto the seat.  With my legs swinging happily over the edge, a good 4 inches from the ground, I fired up my computer and went back to work….  But really, I spent the rest of the day thinking about all the things I’d do with a Little Rascal.