Author Archives: Dan Hansen

When It’s Time to Clean Your Deck, Lay Off the Bleach!

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bigstock-Deck-57020912_smallerWell, Spring’s upon us and many of us, because of the rainy start, are still scrambling to get our decks cleaned and protected for the season.  If that’s you–if you’re one of those folks looking for a good, dry weekend so you can get your deck cleaned and ready for cookouts and parties, well be sure you read this first. See, one of the tendencies we often notice at RepcoLite is a customer’s desire or plan to use regular household bleach to clean their deck.  Since Chlorine bleach does a great job killing bacteria and stuff like that, many of us figure it’ll be perfect for our dirty, moldy or mildewed decks.

But before you go and jump into a job like this, you should be aware that Chlorine bleach has never been proven terribly effective in killing molds on rough, porous surfaces.  Also, be aware that it actually destroys
the lignin in your wood deck.

Now, for those of you not quite up to speed on what exactly lignin is, or does, let me explain:  Lignin is a naturally occuring “complex polymer that binds to cellulose fibers and hardens and strengthens the cell walls of plants”(1).  Basically, when lignin is destroyed by bleach, the way the wood bonds together is disrupted or compromised.  When this happens, the wood’s much more likely to exhibit signs of aging, splintering and checking.  On top of all of that, Chlorine bleach will effectively remove the natural coloring from the wood of your deck, replacing it with a bland, washed-out appearance.

no_bleachAlso, not only does Chlorine bleach negatively affect the durability, quality and appearance of the wood of your deck.  It also can make your deck restoration project.  See, bleach is basically 99% water. And water is largely the reason we see the growth of bacteria and mold on our decks.  Now, the nature of Chlorine prevents it from penetrating deep into materials like concrete or wood.  However, while the Chlorine won’t penetrate–and instead, just lays on the surface–the water WILL penetrate.  And this really only serves to feed the roots of the mold.  So, you clean the deck, get it looking great–right away–only to find a few days later that the mold is back with a vengeance.  This is all likely to happen when Chlorine bleach is used as a cleaner.

So, with all that said, the answer’s pretty simple:  when it comes to cleaning your deck, lay off the Chlorine bleach!  Instead, use an oxygenated Bleach cleaner like “Defy’s Safe Oxygenated Bleach Wood Cleaner” available at RepcoLite for $20.95.  This powder mix will mix with water to produce 5 gallons of deck cleaning solution–enough to cover 700 – 1000 square feet.

An oxygenated Bleach like Defy’s cleaner will give your deck a clean look without harming the wood, detracting from it’s appearance or endangering the surrounding vegetation.  Oxygen bleach give you a clean deck and will not harm vegetation surrounding your deck, which is a huge plus and will save you time from covering your grass and landscaping to protect it.  Remember, the healthier your deck wood is, the better the deck’s going to look.

So lay off the Chlorine bleach when it’s cleaning time!

Save Money: Buy Quality Paint!

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dollars-426023_1920Spring has finally (hopefully) sprung and with it, so has the exterior painting season.  Homeowners all throughout West Michigan are already starting to take a look around their properties, trying to decide what jobs need to be tackled and which ones can wait until next year.

Well, with the economic situation being what it is, chances are most of us who are looking to do some exterior painting are also looking for ways to cut back on the expense.  And typically, when it comes to painting, the most obvious place to cut expenses is by buying a cheaper paint.  After all, if you buy 3 gallons of paint at RepcoLite for $40 a gallon, but can buy some paint at the hardware store down the street for $20 a gallon, you’ll save at least $60 on the project, right?

Not exactly.  In fact, chances are, you won’t be saving any money at all and, in fact, will likely be spending more in the long run.

According to a Press Release by the Paint Quality Institute, field tests show that “while ordinary exterior paint lasts about 4 years, top quality 100% acrylic latex paint can last 10 years or more when applied to a properly prepared surface”.  What this means, is that while the initial cost of the paint is HIGHER, the overall cost of the paint will be much, much less.

For example, taking our situation where a homeowner purchases 3 gallons of ORDINARY paint to do some work on their home, we can see that the cost is $60.  Add another $15 or so in for supplies and then, don’t forget to take into account your time.  With all of that, you’ve got at least $75 in materials and some time invested.  Now, according to the field tests conducting by the Paint Quality Institute, that ORDINARY paint is likely to give you 4 years of quality service.  So, doing the math, the cost breaks down to about $18.95 a year.

Now, if you’d do that same job with QUALITY 100% ACRYLIC paint like RepcoLite’s Endura (formerly UltraShield), you’ll pay $37 per gallon.  With 3 gallons needed, you’ll spend $111 on paint.  Add to that the $15 in supplies and your time and you’ll have a total cost of about $126.

endura_520At first glance, that looks like a $50 savings by going to the cheaper paint.  However, if the Endura lasts–as the field tests show it will–at least 10 years before it needs to be redone, you find that the average cost per year breaks down to about $12.60, which actually makes it cheaper in the long run than buying the cheaper paint.

Add to that savings the fact that your time isn’t cheap and that with the ORDINARY paint, you’ll have to do the project at least twice before you’ve reached that 10 year point that QUALITY paint will get you.

The savings get even greater if you decide to hire a contractor to do the work because labor costs don’t vary based on the paint.  If you have your painter use a cheap paint, it’s not going to affect your LABOR costs.  If he uses a QUALITY paint, your LABOR costs will not change.  The only thing that changes is your PAINT costs.  And if that paint lasts you 2 1/2 times as long as an ORDINARY paint, you’re going to be money ahead in the long run.

In the end, remember that saving money is about looking at the big picture.  Saving money today, only to spend more money down the road doesn’t really do you any good.  You’re net result is still a loss.  So don’t let yourself get suckered by a low sticker price.  Saving money is about more than just saving a few bucks today.  Buy with the big picture in mind and you’ll be congratulating yourself for your smart decision 4 years from now!

Getting Rid of Mold on Your Ceiling in 3 Steps

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Mold On The CeilingMold on a bathroom ceiling is a common problem homeowners struggle with on a regular basis.  However, the good news is that while it is common and while it can be a pain to get rid of, it CAN be dealt with–you just need to take the right steps.

ASSESS THE PROBLEM

You need to start the process of fixing the mold on your ceiling by remembering that mold is a SYMPTOM of a deeper problem.  Somehow, moisture is causing this mold to grow and thrive on your walls or your ceiling.  You need to figure out what is causing the moisture.  It could be your shower, it could be an ineffective (or non-existent) ceiling fan, it could be a leaky pipe or even a leaking roof.  Find the problem that’s causing the mold and fix it.  If it’s the roof, repair it.  If it’s the shower, cut down on the number or length of showers if possible.  If it’s the fan, put a new one in.  This is the first part and it’s a critical step.  If you DON’T do this, chances are the mold will just continue to be a problem.

KILL THE MOLD

Once you’ve dealt with the root source of the problem, it’s time to deal with the symptoms–the mold.  And the first step here is to kill it.  This is done by mixing a solution of 1 part Bleach and  4 parts Water in a spray bottle.  Once you’ve got this mixed, mist the bleach solution over the affected spots on your ceiling or walls.  (TAKE PRECAUTIONS HERE:  Wear old clothes, remove rugs, put down drop clothes, wear eye protection and DON’T MIX THE BLEACH WITH OTHER CLEANING AGENTS).  After you’ve sprayed the mold spots, allow the bleach about 10 minutes or so to work and then scrub the spots with a sponge or a scrub brush.  If necessary, hit the spots with a second misting of bleach.

TOPCOAT

Once you’ve killed the mold and mildew and let the wall dry down, you might be done. Yes, you read that correctly! You might not even need to paint! But if you do, the last step in the process is to roll a couple coats of a high-quality finish on your walls or ceiling.  We recommend first and foremost Benjamin Moore’s Aura Bath and Spa. It’s a tremendous product for you bathroom and, in our opinion, the best thing you could use. It’s specially formulated for bathroom and high moisture areas, offering excellent mold and mildew resistance. It’s also available in a matte finish. Which means you can say goodbye to those shiny bathroom walls! On top of that, it’s Aura. Which means excellent hide and coverage!

If you’re repainting, Aura Bath and Spa is a great choice. In fact, there’s really no reason to use anything else!

Mold on a bathroom ceiling is a pain in the neck.  My bathroom is living (literally) proof of that right now.  But, as I mentioned earlier, the good news is that the problem is fixable and, with effort, even preventable.  Follow these steps and you should find your way to a mold-free bathroom in no time!

Ancient Greece: The Importance of Paint REVEALED!

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colorful_greeceIf I say the words “Athens, Greece”, what do you think of?
Chances are, you think about about white marble statues and temples–beautifully simplistic art and architecture. That’s what comes to mind when I hear those words. But, apparently, my understanding of history and culture and Greek architecture and art are a little skewed. And I’m betting some of you have a warped perception as well.
See, apparently all those white marble structures and statues we think of are only white because time and the elements have worn off their original coatings. Yes, they were painted! Bold, bright, vivid colors. And all, apparently, without good prep work, since the paint all peeled off!

8 Quick Tips Regarding Roller Covers

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For those of us who paint everyday, there are little things we learn along the way–little things we do that makes the work go quicker, easier.  Here are a collection of 8 of those tips–check them out and make use of any of them that make sense to you!

ALWAYS START EVERY PROJECT with a NEW ROLLER COVER

People often try to save money by re-using an old roller cover.  The problem is, those old, washed-out roller covers never work well.  The fibers get clumpy after a good washing and typically they never return to a condition that applies a finish paint well.  So don’t compromise your paint job–the money you spent on paint and the time you spent working–only to end up with a poor finish.  Instead, spend the extra $4 or so and get a new cover for a new project!

ALWAYS PICK the RIGHT ROLLER for the JOB

A 3/8″ roller cover is ideal for most interior surfaces and most paint finishes.  3/8″ covers work for standard textured ceilings and yet they’re smooth enough for your walls.  These covers carry enough paint to be easy to use, but they typically don’t carry so much that they spatter and drip everywhere.  However, bear in mind that there are shorter-napped and longer-napped covers that are specific for certain situations.  Before you buy any cover, we recommend that you explain your project to the expert in the paint store and let him or her steer you to the right cover.

DON’T FORGET there are SMALL ROLLERS for the LITTLE JOBS

RepcoLite carries a wide assortment of small, specialty rollers.  These are perfect for painting everything from the panels in a paneled door, to reaching those tight areas behind your radiators or inside your cabinets.  When you find yourself in a tight spot, don’t forget that these options are available!

DON’T MIX and MATCH ROLLER COVERS

Building on the idea just mentioned, it’s important to point out that the finishes left by those little roller covers can be different from the finish left behind by your standard roller cover.  This can potentially make a difference in the appearance of your overall project.  The difference can be minor–and it can be severe.  The best way around it is to remember that all of those little rollers–at least the ones we have at RepcoLite–match up in nap and finish with their larger counterparts.  If you used a 3/8″ roller for your walls, make sure you pick up a 3/8″ roller cover for your small roller.

ROLLER FRAMES MATTER

So far, we’ve only talked about roller covers, but a big part of the ease and functionality of a roller cover is the frame you put it on.  If you buy the best roller cover, but then mount it on the cheapest frame you can get your hands on, chances are the experience will be less than stellar!  Roller frames are not disposable–they last from job to job.  Add to that the fact that a good, high quality frame is typically about $4 – $6 more than a cheapo and it’s really a no-brainer.  Drop the extra $4 once and you’ll reap the rewards of your decision every single time you paint!

REMOVE LINT from the NEW COVER

Folks don’t always realize this, but brand new roller covers are typically covered with lint and cut-off fuzzies. It happens during the manufacturing process and, if you don’t remove these fuzzies before you start painting, you’ll typically find yourself removing them from your wall after you’ve rolled them on in a coat of paint.  To remove them, simply tape some painter’s tape down on your counter–sticky side up–and roll your cover over the tape.  Do this several times to make sure all the lint and loose fibers have been removed.

USE WATER to PREPARE YOUR ROLLER COVER for PAINT

Sometimes, filling a new roller cover up with paint can be a pain.  You roll it in the tray but the second it hits the paint, it stops rolling.  You end up with a bunch of paint on one half of the cover and nothing on the other.  Oh, you can get the whole thing covered, but it takes some work.  To avoid that hassle, try this:  moisten the roller cover with water (for latex paint) ahead of time.  Either run it quickly under a tap or mist it with a spray bottle of clean water.  Once it’s wet, roll it out on a dry rag to remove the excess moisture before moving it to your paint. (Don’t roll it out on newspaper as the newsprint could come off on the cover!)

USE SARAN WRAP to STORE YOUR COVERS OVERNIGHT

If you get done painting for a night, but plan to start again the next morning, don’t waste time cleaning out your cover.  Simply pull it off your roller frame and then wrap it tightly in Saran Wrap.  Once it’s wrapped, store it on your counter or in your refrigerator. DON’T STORE IT IN YOUR FREEZER (unless it’s oil-based paint). This process should keep your roller ready for use for a day or so.

Be aware that if you leave it much longer, it runs the risk of drying out and–especially in humid situations–getting a little moldy.

Keeping Your Caulk From Drying Out

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wax_ringI’ve got a number of tubes of caulk in my basement, on my shelves, that are dried out. And that number is 10. Yes. Ten 1/2 full or 3/4 full tubes of caulks of assorted colors and types that have all dried out.

I discovered this the other day when I, of course, needed to do some caulking. And, of course, I didn’t buy any caulk because I knew I had at least $40 worth of caulk on my basement shelves. However, when I went down there to get it, I quickly realized that all of those tubes were no good.

I had used them earlier and had never sealed them correctly to prevent them from drying out. And, as a result, they dried out.

Well, I know that I can at times be pretty dumb when it comes to home improvement stuff, but I also know that I’m not the only one. So, I thought I’d share with you two great ways I discovered after that experience that will help you keep your caulk ready to use.

METHOD 1: The Wax Ring Method

The first way is my favorite and I owe credit to a wood working blogger I discovered here.  This method is very simple, very cost effective, a little gross (when you think about it), and very cool.  Here it is:

  • Buy a wax ring for a toilet from a hardware store.  (Should be under $4 in price.)
  • Take the wax ring and put it in a small container that you can seal.  (you could use a tape cannister, possibly film cannisters, or anything along those lines.  The goal is to put the wax in a container that you can seal so it stays pliable, but also so it doesn’t get all over the place and make a mess).
  • When you’re done caulking for a day or for a month or whatever, simply open up this cannister with the wax and press the tip of the caulk into the wax (preferably a couple inches).

The wax will fill the nozzle perfectly and will create a perfect seal.  When you’re ready to caulk again, simply pop the tube into your gun and squeeze the trigger.  The wax seal will be expelled just ahead of the caulk–which will still be perfectly good!

METHOD 2: Latex Gloves

Another method I’ve read about for sealing up a tube of caulk in-between jobs is this:

  • Start by taking one of those little latex “doctor’s” gloves and then cutting the finger off.
  • Drape this “cut-off finger” over the nozzle of the tube of caulk and then wrap some tape around the base to seal it.
  • When you’re ready to use it again, simply pull the seal off and your caulk should still be usable.
  • Now, while both of these methods are inexpensive and should work well, I still like the simplicity of the wax  ring idea.  I don’t have to mess with tape, I don’t have to worry if I got the little finger thingy taped down tightly enough, etc.  And, best of all, when I want to use the caulk again, I just pop it in the gun and pull the trigger.  I don’t have to mess with pulling tape off after it’s been sitting on a tube for 4-5 months.

If you do any amount of caulking, give one of these methods a try–either one is way better than the old “put a nail in it” method and will produce much better results!