Basement Floor Paint: The Options

Posted on December 13, 2012August 6, 2019

Painting a basement floor is a great way to improve your home without dropping a lot of money. However, while the project isn’t complicated, there are a few things you should know. First off, as we wrote here, you first must make sure that your floor is even a candidate for paint. If you’ve done that and you’ve determined that your floor can be painted, the next step is to determine which floor paint to use.

There are many options out there, but you should be aware of fancy packaging and vague marketing promises. The box may “say” that the paint wears like steel. It may highlight the fact that the paint is an epoxy. But understand that not all epoxies are the same. And that marketing claims can sometimes be made based on a “best case, controlled-environment, scenario”. (They’re also quite subjective–as some marketer’s idea of what steel wears like is not necessarily what you think steel will wear like!).

So with that said, let’s discuss a couple options we have at RepcoLite when it comes to basement floor paint and let’s compare these to the standard kits you see at the Big Box Stores. Hopefully this will give you the information you need to make an informed choice based on your situation.

LATEX SINGLE-COMPONENT FLOOR PAINT

This is a very basic floor paint and offers a number of benefits. Single-component latex floor paints are incredibly easy to use. There is no mixing, no catalyzing, no “open time” or anything along those lines. Simply stir or shake the container before use, pour out, and roll on.

These paints apply easily, usually cover quite well, and best of all, they dry very quickly and with very low amounts of residual odor. There are no dangerous fumes to deal with and there’s no concern regarding turning off pilot lights and furnaces. Also, single-component latex floor paints like RepcoLite’s AquaTred floor paint are usually more inexpensive than other basement floor paint systems.

On the downside, these paints are probably the least durable of all floor paints. Yes, a lot of the durability of a particular product is directly related to proper surface preparation, but still, latex single-component paints are best suited for areas that receive only light to moderate foot traffic. If you’re painting a work room or some other area where you’ll be using (and potentially dragging) equipment across the floor, this might not be the best option for you.

BOTTOM LINE: In comparison to other “Big Box” epoxy systems, these paints are a little less durable. However, they compensate for this however by offering you ease of use, a quick dry time and a great price. However, if the room you’re working in is simply a storage area or a lightly trafficked laundry area (and you’re looking to accomplish the job quickly, inexpensively and with little or no residual odor) this might be perfect.

SOLVENT-BASED SINGLE-COMPONENT FLOOR PAINT

The second option RepcoLite offers when it comes to basement floor paint is our Urethane Floor Enamel. Like its latex counterpart, Urethane Floor Enamel is relatively simple to use. No catalyst is required, no “open time”, and so on. All you need is the paint itself, a quick stir or shake, and you’re ready to go.

These paints apply well, self-level beautifully and offer much better absorption than a latex would. The added urethane in RepcoLite’s product provides dramatically increased durability over other “solvent-based” floor systems. This added fortifier makes Urethane Floor Enamel nearly equivalent in durability to those Big Box Epoxy kits–at a much lower price.

Urethane Floor Enamel is suitable for moderate to high foot traffic floors and will even hold up (once they’re cured) to dragging and sliding of small equipment (bench saws, small cabinets, etc.).

However, there are some drawbacks. First and foremost, as is the case with any solvent-based product, there is an odor. Also, you will have paint fumes to deal with. You will need to ventilate your room well while working and after you’re finished. Turning off pilot lights and furnaces is also important. And, speaking from sad experience, if you have a gas clothes dryer, you MUST make sure the fumes are entirely out of the room before using it. (If you don’t, all the clothes you or your wife dries will end up smelling like Kerosene and your wife will make you rewash them. And will remind you about this experience for the rest of your life.)

BOTTOM LINE: These paints are a great option if you can’t or don’t want to work with an epoxy coating. They’ll provide great durability for almost every basement application at a fraction of the price of the more expensive (and often less durable) epoxy systems. They do, however, pack a bit of a wallop with paint fumes, so be sure to ventilate well.

CONCLUSION

Painting a basement floor is a great project. It’s inexpensive, can be accomplished in just a few short hours, and will make a world of difference in your basement. However, finding the right product can seem tricky for those who aren’t familiar with paint and all the new technologies out there. If you’re considering the project, don’t just pick up a floor kit at a Big Box Store and roll it on! Take time and head to a RepcoLite near you for some straightforward advice and information. We’ll help you find the best product for your job and we’ll walk you through the proper steps to make sure the product lasts for years to come! (And if you’re nowhere near a RepcoLite, head to a reputable paint dealer in your area.)

Concrete Floors: Is My Floor Even a Candidate For Paint?

Posted on November 27, 2012August 6, 2019

All concrete floors are different and many variables are at play. Some floors are composed of bare concrete. Some of this concrete is old, some new. Some old concrete floors are clean, others are dirty. Some are dirty, others are filthy. Still other floors are painted. Of those, some are holding up beautifully and others are peeling like a summer sunburn.

All too often, folks wander into a Big Box Store on a weekend and just happen to spot a gallon or a kit of “Floor Paint”. They read the can and are informed that after applying two simply coats of this paint to their floor, they’ll have a beautiful, showroom basement.

Some buy into this idea and consequently buy the paint. If you’re curious how their project ends, head to the websites of any of these stores and check out the reviews for their floor paint. Eight times out of ten, the reviews are bad. And almost 100% of those bad reviews are the result of people painting floors in the wrong way, without the right prep. Some are even the results of people painting floors that should NEVER have been painted in the first place.

So, all that to say, before you rush into a paint job on your basement floor, be aware that there’s a level of great deal of information and understanding you need to be able to tackle this project successfully. No, it’s not complicated. Yes, anybody can do it. But it DOES take a few extra steps that you’re not likely to be hear about at your average Big Box Store.

Is painting my floor even an option?

As we mentioned above, some floors are simply not cut out for a paint job. There are certain situations that simply preclude the option of painting.

If you’re wondering about your floor, work your way through the following steps for the following scenarios:

1. YOUR FLOOR IS BARE CONCRETE (Old or New)

A. IS IT CURED? The starting point with bare concrete is to determine whether or not the floor has cured for at least 60 days. If it hasn’t, wait until it has. If it has cured for anywhere from 60 days to 50 (or more) years, proceed to “B” below.

B. TEST FOR MOISTURE: Duct Tape a 2 x 2 sheet of plastic to your floor, secure the edges of the tape to ensure a tight bond, and let it sit for 24 hours. After the 24 hour time frame, pull up the plastic and examine it: is there condensation visible? Has the concrete in that spot darkened? If so, you still have moisture in the concrete and should let it continue to dry. If your concrete is old and still exhibits a moisture problem as evidenced by the plastic test, you should reconsider painting that floor. It has a moisture issue and will definitely result in paint failure. In short, if your floor is old and still exhibits a moisture problem, it’s NOT a candidate for a paint job.

2. YOUR FLOOR HAS PREVIOUSLY BEEN PAINTED

A. IS THE PAINT PEELING? Examine your painted floor: is it peeling or flaking off in relatively large quantities? Some peeling or chipping can be expected, but if you’re seeing large scale failure, that is an indication of a deeper problem. The problem could be a surface contaminant that was painted over or, more likely it’s a moisture problem in your concrete.

1. IS IT A SURFACE CONTAMINANT PROBLEM? If the peeling is relatively localized–a few large areas–it COULD be a surface contaminant. One option would be to clean those spots with a household detergent, let them dry and then proceed to painting (we’ll discuss this in a later post). However, be aware, that this is no guarantee. The peeling paint could be caused by a surface contaminant, but it could also be caused by moisture (see below). And, even if it is a surface contaminant, it’s very likely that it’s in more places than just the spots you see now. You could clean up and fix those spots only to find, within a few months, other spots starting to let loose and peel. This is frustrating and is one of those perfect examples of why the proper prep work is so important! If the first steps are done incorrectly–especially on a floor–ALL subsequent work is affected!

2. IS THERE A MOISTURE PROBLEM? While the peeling you see could be a cause of a surface contaminant, it’s much more likely it’s a moisture problem. Moisture can work through concrete in any number of ways, but the important thing to realize is this: if you’ve got excess moisture coming through your concrete, for whatever reason (unless the floor wasn’t allowed to cure 60 days), it’s virtually impossible to fix. Painting over the cement will temporarily make it look good, but the moisture will eventually (sometimes sooner, sometimes later) push that paint coating off.

3. CONCLUSION: If your painted floor exhibits peeling on a large scale, it’s likely not a good candidate for a paint job. However, since it’s painted, you will likely want to at least throw a new coat on there. Go ahead and scrape off as much loose paint as you can, wash the floor and rinse it well (we’ll discuss this step in a later post). Then you’ll be ready to paint. Just understand that your previous paint didn’t bond for a reason and it’s very likely the new paint will eventually peel as well.

B. THE PAINT IS NOT PEELING AND IS IN GOOD CONDITION: If your previous coating is holding up well, all you’ll need to do is give it a quick wash, a good rinse, and some time to dry. Then it’s time to paint.

As I’ve mentioned multiple times in this post, we’ll dig into the washing, rinsing and drying steps in a later post. This first one was meant to help you determine whether or not your floor was even a candidate for a paint job. If it’s not, think about carpet or tile or maybe just leaving it alone. If it is, look for the next part of the discussion tomorrow.

7 Tips When Staining Poplar

Posted on November 19, 2012August 6, 2019

Very often when folks are at the lumber yard picking out wood for a particular home project, they choose Poplar. The reason is because it looks beautiful in its unstained, natural form and it’s very easy to work with. It also can be less expensive than woods like Cherry. And so, many homeowners pick up Poplar and then go to work trimming out their kitchen or living room or building a bookcase or two.

Now, Poplar is an absolutely perfect choice if your plans are to prime and paint your wood. Poplar is what we in the paint and stain industry refer to as a “paint-grade” wood. This means it’s perfectly suited for a paint application. That “paint-grade” classification also means that Poplar is not ideal for staining.

Poplar is technically a hardwood, but it’s one of the softer ones. This means it will take stain very unevenly. Stain soaks in and usually looks blotchy and lifeless, dull and generally not all that visually appealing.

Folks who choose Poplar with the intention of staining it to make it look like their more expensive Cherry cabinets face an uphill struggle. If that’s you, here are some tips that may help! (And just to be clear: these tips aren’t meant to be read as step-by-step instructions. For instructions, bring your wood to any RepcoLite or Port City Paints store and let us see what you’re doing and tell you the best way to get there. The tips below are just that–tips. Things to do and be aware of!)

TIP 1

If you’ve got the option, don’t choose Poplar if you’re going to stain the wood. I know this isn’t really a tip to help you stain your Poplar, but it’s still the best advice I can give to start with: don’t sink a lot of money into Poplar if you’re hoping for beautifully-stained end results. Oh, you can get a beautiful finish out of Poplar, but it’s not as easy as staining a wood that’s better-suited for stain, like Cherry, for example. So, if you’ve got the option, avoid Poplar for staining. If you don’t–if money’s an issue or if you’ve already purchased the Poplar–read on…

TIP 2

If you haven’t already picked up your wood, start by choosing the darker Poplar. Poplar generally will come in various shades: white, a darker yellow or almost grey tone, and then something much more green. Usually people resonate toward the white Poplar because it looks the cleanest. Unfortunately, the whiter the wood, the softer it usually is–and the softer it is, the more blotchy the stain will look. Darker Poplar generally has a denser grain and will take stain much better. If you have the option, choose the darker wood.

TIP 3

Save your scraps! When you work with the wood, save all the cut-off scraps. Use these as samples when it comes time to test your stain (or when you need a stain match). One of the key mistakes when staining wood is failing to test your stain ahead of time. You don’t want to apply stain to your trim only to find out then that the stain or your system for applying it doesn’t get you the color you want. Instead, test the color and the method on your scraps until you’re comfortable with the process and are sure that the stain color is correct.

TIP 4

Bring those scraps into RepcoLite for a custom stain match. Now, you may be tempted to balk at this step, but if you’re working with Poplar, this is a no-brainer. Sure, you could pick a wood stain off a shelf in some store and hope for the best, but why? If you bring a sample of your wood and a sample of the color you want to RepcoLite, Port City Paints or Snyder Paints, we’ll create a custom stain for you and also work out the process that’s necessary to get you there. THIS IS ESSENTIAL! Any store can give you a stain, but it takes a place with some expertise to be able to explain and walk you through the actual process of applying it–the various products you might need, the steps you should take and the time you should allow between each one.

On some easy-to-stain woods this may not be as critical, but with Poplar, there are a lot of variables–a great number of different application techniques that can be employed to get your color. We’ll work with your wood, figure out what must be done, and then give you the details so you can produce the correct look in your home. So bring the scraps to us and let us help.

TIP 5

Be aware of a product RepcoLite manufacturers called “Softwood Sealer”. This is a wood conditioner that is applied before you stain and which serves to seal up the porous wood to minimize or eliminate the blotchy appearance. This sealer is applied with a brush and then wiped off with a rag. It can be left to dry anywhere from 15 minutes to 24 hours depending on how porous the wood is and what type of look you desire. If you have your stain custom-matched by RepcoLite, we’ll tell you how long to let this sealer dry before you stain. If you don’t, and you’re flying solo on this project, make sure you use those sample boards from step 3!

TIP 6

Purchase a wiping stain or a gel stain–not a penetrating stain. Wiping stains will give you a little more control over your color and penetrating stains will simply soak in too quickly and too deeply (even with the softwood sealer), producing a blotchy end result.

TIP 7

Finally, (to repeat): sample, sample, sample! Use those cut-off scraps from step 3 and test your stain until you’re comfortable with the process and the method.

Staining Poplar isn’t easy–the nature of the wood is constantly working against you, making it tough to achieve a beautifully-stained finish. But, with that said, you can still accomplish a great end result. It just takes a little more work and a little more know-how, but it can be done! And once more, let me encourage you to stop out at any RepcoLite, Port City Paints or Snyder Paints store (Indiana) for expert advice! We’ve been helping people do this for years–let us help you!

Paint Screw-Ups Anonymous

Posted on November 15, 2012August 6, 2019

“My name’s Dan and I’m a recovering Prep Work Skipper.”

If there were support groups for those of us who consistently mess up paint jobs, that’s how I’d introduce myself every week.

See, I do a lot of things right when it comes to a paint job. I take the time necessary to pick the colors I really want (usually). I amass the necessary tools before I start. I buy quality materials and paint. I do many things right.

However, what I routinely screw up is this: I skip or skimp on the prep work. Every time. It’s like an addiction. An addiction to skipping prep work. I mean really, that’s got to be one of the dumbest sounding sentences I’ve ever written, but it’s the truth: I hate prep work when I paint and so I skip it. And then, inevitably (and by inevitably, I mean ALWAYS) it comes back to bite me. Inevitably (always).

And so I’m turning over a new leaf. From here on out I’m going to make the following changes to my painting methods and practices:

RESOLUTION NUMBER 1

I will no longer simply roll around or over the nails that are stuck in my wall. This usually messes up my roller, creating a weird divot that repeats over and over on my wall, frustrating me; or, it creates drips on the wall or floor that I don’t find until after the paint has dried. And that always makes me profoundly sad. From now on, I will remove those nails ahead of time.

RESOLUTION NUMBER 2

I will patch the nail holes left in my wall when I implement Resolution Number 1 above. And I will patch them with the proper spackling compound AND will let that compound DRY before I try to SAND it. (Because I’ve tried to rush this and sanding only partially dried spackling results in results that make me profoundly sad.) To give myself the proper time to accomplish these spackling and sanding tasks, I will have to tackle this aspect of the project ahead of the day that I plan to paint. This will require planning and discipline, and I resolve to practice both.

RESOLUTION NUMBER 3

I will no longer tell myself that my walls are clean enough and do not need to be wiped down before I paint. I will accept the fact that I do not regularly clean the top corners of every room and that even though I style myself as a clean and tidy person, there is a good chance that random cobwebs may be there. I will take the necessary 20 minutes to wipe away those cobwebs so I don’t end up rolling into them later with paint and then spreading them over my walls.

RESOLUTION NUMBER 4

I will no longer let myself believe that “scuff sanding” is a great idea, but that I really don’t have time to do it right now. I will take the necessary 10 minutes to scuff sand a dresser before I prime and paint it. I will scuff sand my woodwork before I paint it. I will scuff sand all shiny surfaces EVEN IF I’m using a primer that says “no scuff sanding necessary.” I will remember that there are no shortcuts.

RESOLUTION NUMBER 5

I will no longer do everything else right–buy the right paint, buy the best tools, choose the right colors–only to screw the project up by skipping the prep work. I will admit that an extra hour or two is worth all the extra work and frustration and money I’ve cost myself through the years by skipping prep work. I will do the proper prep work, no matter how boring it is, so that my project looks as professional as possible when I finish. In short, I will no longer convince myself that certain prep-work projects are worthwhile, but that I simply don’t have time for them. I will make time for prep work precisely because it is so worthwhile.

Those are my resolutions. I’ll probably screw up from time to time, but I’m going to give it my best shot from here on out. How about you? Anyone else out there who routinely skips the prep work stage only to be burned in the end? Anyone else out there ready to circle up, admit your addiction to hating prep work, and start the recovery process? The recovery group is open….

The Fifth Wall

Posted on November 1, 2012August 6, 2019

bigstock-Happy-Woman-Painting-The-Ceili-7960216_smaller_curl3 Has this ever happened to you: you walk into the paint store for paint and then spend the next three days or a week or more agonizing over the color chips you brought home? You hold them up to every piece of furniture in the room. You lay them on your carpet, on your end table. You try to picture them large scale–covering your walls. You debate between one shade and a slightly darker shade. And then, finally, after all the debate and analysis and agony, you pick the perfect colors.

You make your way to the paint store, order a gallon of one and two gallons of the other and then, almost as a side note, you grab a gallon or two of ceiling white and call it good.

Do you see the problem here? The mistake? It may not be obvious, but it’s this: we put huge amounts of energy and thought into our wall colors and don’t give our ceilings the time of day.

Next time you paint–change that line of thinking. Your ceiling isn’t just a ceiling–it’s a fifth wall. And, as such, you shouldn’t necessarily just roll white paint up there.

If you’re looking to make an impact in your home, putting color on a ceiling is a surefire way to do that. And the reason is simple: it’s extremely rare. apt-therapy_shadow_curl Most folks forget about their ceilings when it comes time to paint and as a result, most ceilings are forgettable.

Change that in your home by rolling a color up there. Just keep this in mind: the darker the color you put on the ceiling, the lower it will make those ceilings feel. This can be great in big, high-ceilinged rooms. Rolling a color on your ceiling that’s a shade or two darker than your wall color can go a long ways toward making your room feel cozier, warmer, more inviting. A darker color on your ceiling will draw your eyes downward, bring down those big open spaces, and create settings that feel more personal, more intimate.

Lighter colors on the ceiling will make the room feel a little more expansive, a little more open.

white_ceiling_curl However, there’s something very interesting to realize here: many folks understand this concept and they figure that painting those ceilings white will really serve to open the room up. However, think about this: if you’ve got a medium toned color on your walls, no matter what shade, a white on the ceiling can often produce a very sharp distinction between the walls and the ceiling. This sharp distinction, this high contrast between walls and ceiling, can often lead people to conclude that their wall color doesn’t work–that it needs to be repainted.

Look at the picture above. The green on those walls is a strong color. However, the room works because the ceiling is a soft tan. It’s not a dark ceiling–definitely not dark in comparison with the walls–but it’s dark enough to create a nice balance in the space.

tan_ceiling_curl Imagine the same room with a white ceiling. In fact, you don’t have to imagine it, look at the picture below. That’s the same room with a standard white on the ceiling and the whole mood of the room changes. The stark white on the ceiling makes the green on the walls feel harsh. Many times, folks would paint a room like this, think they love that green, only to be back later for new paint because the color’s just too strong on the walls.

Now, I admit, the green truly is a strong color–but you can minimize it’s strength, tone it done, control it a little better, by putting a color other than white on the ceiling.

All that to say: don’t forget about the fifth wall in every room–your ceilings. You can put some color up there to make a room feel more inviting, to make it feel cozier, or even to tone down the visual power of a wall color you really love. Keep it in mind.

12 Screwdrivers for $1: What Could Go Wrong?

Posted on October 26, 2012August 6, 2019

I’m cheap. I’ve probably written that before, but that doesn’t matter. I’m so cheap, it’s legitimate to write it again. But that cheapness has it’s limits.

Several months ago, I learned a tough lesson in the world of Cheapness. I was working on a project in my kitchen and I needed a small screwdriver to unscrew and remove about 12 tiny screws. After scrounging in my basement work room and coming up empty, I decided I needed to travel to the tool store.

Reluctantly I did. My little wad of crinkled dollar bills was in my pocket and I planned to run in, grab the screwdriver and get back home to finish the project so I could go outside and play and have fun with the kids.

However, something happened: on my way to the tool store, I drove past a dollar store, and my wife announced that we needed to stop there so she could pick up some this or that. So we stopped. And as she made a beeline for the different items she needed, I wandered.

And do you know what happened? I wandered into the tool section. (I hesitate to call it a “department” because we were, after all, in a dollar store). Anyway, we wandered into the tool section and I found, sitting on the shelf in a bright, shiny plastic package, a set of 12 screwdrivers. The price tag? Exactly 1 U.S. Dollar. Plus tax.

Well, if you’re me, that 12-pack-for-just-1-dollar-deal is just too good to refuse. So I snatched it up, dropped it on the counter and promptly paid my $1.06. All the way home, I bragged up my find to my wife. Oh, I knew the tools weren’t the best, but all I needed to do was remove 12 screws. And I had 12 screwdrivers. It’s impossible that I could fail, right?

Riding on cloud nine, I pulled into the driveway and marched into the house ready to tackle my project. And of course, you already know what happened. The first screwdriver broke on the third twist–the shaft separated from the handle. No problem. I had 11 more. And I’d planned on this. No Sweat.

But then the second and third screwdriver broke before I’d removed that first screw. And I started to get nervous. I mean really? Could I possibly break every single screwdriver in a 12 pack before I’d unscrewed 12 screws? Could such a think happen? Surely, no!

Sadly, yes. They all broke. I still had 6 or so screws to go when I threw the last screwdriver into the garbage. Frustrated, I drove to the tool store, dropped $6, came back home, and about 2 hours after I’d started, I finally had everything done.

A project that should have taken 10 minutes max ended up taking a couple of hours (when you add in all the driving and waiting in line and so on).

In the end, it taught me a good lesson: there’s a time and a place for cheapness. But there’s also a time and place for purchasing quality materials. Dropping the extra money right up front is sometimes the best money-and-time-saving decision you can make. It was that way with those screwdrivers and it’s also that way with paint.

See, so often people think paint is paint. Good paint isn’t any different from cheap paint. At least that’s the thinking. And when people who think there’s no real difference in quality see that quality paint is about $8 more per gallon, well, their decision is basically made for them. They buy the cheapest paint they can find and then work their way through the project. In the end, they get the walls covered, but they usually put the brushes and rollers away heaving a sigh of relief that the terrible, horrible job is finally done and they walk away assuming that painting is a pain.

However, it’s not the painting that’s the pain. It’s the paint. When you use a cheap paint product, you may not realize there’s a difference between it and a quality product, but that doesn’t change the fact that there is. High quality materials roll onto your walls easier, with less work. They don’t drip and spatter all over the place. They cover and hide much better. They go farther. They wash up and hold up better and they don’t need to be touched up as often.

A good paint versus a cheap paint can often take at least 1 less coat and will usually still be looking great on your walls when the cheaper paint is begging for a repaint.

And that’s the point to think about: buying the better paint right in the beginning is, by far, the better value. Sure, it may (in an average living room that takes 2 gallons of paint) cost about $16 total dollars more than the cheap paint, but think of the benefits: the paint will apply easier, cover better, hide more, drip less and last longer. You’ll apply fewer coats, spend less time, and won’t need to deal with drips and spills.

$16 more on an average room will save you at least an hour or two of work and will provide you with a better product that will wash up, resist wear and need less touch-ups than a cheaper paint.

With the screwdrivers, I assumed there was no way to make a bad screwdriver. I thought a screwdriver was a screwdriver–why pay $5 for 1 when I could get 12 for $1? I learned the hard way that all screwdrivers aren’t created equal. The same is true with paint. Good paint will make a difference. Sure, it will cost more up front, but the value in the long run will be worth it. Try it. Just once. Pick up a high quality paint (RepcoLite, of course) for your next project and see what a difference it makes!